14 Responses

  1. Chuy Garcia
    | Reply

    Hi, I just got a 1979 boler I am repairing. It was stored in a barn for 25 years but it is in very good condition. I am having issues with the electric…the lights don’t turn on. I just replaced the 7 blades connector. I verified electricity comes to the boler but not to the lights (running lights, stops, turns). If you can share the guide will be very much appreciate it.
    thank you,
    Chuy (pronounce chewy)

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hello Chuy, let’s try to give you some help.
      The most common problem with lights is the ground circuit. The original lights used in a Boler are designed to be mounted on a metal frame trailer where the mounting screw are used as the ground for the lights. Because these screws are into non-conductive fiberglass a wire with a round terminal is sandwiched together with the screw and as soon as the screw loosens a little the connection is broken. Start tracing wires, each circuit has a power feed to the light and a ground back, check these wires for continuity.

      • Chuy Garcia
        | Reply

        Hello Ian,
        Greetings from the Chicago area!
        That is a great advise! I will work on it this weekend. My next step is to replace the tires and will start taking a look at the gas pipes. I am amazed that the original mini-fridge is still working 😉 For now my plan for the next 3 weeks is to make it usable for a couple of short trips. Next year will make it more comfortable for longer trips.
        Your website will be of a great guide 😉
        Thank you!
        Chuy

        • Ian
          | Reply

          Thank you Chuy
          Your plan sounds great, as long as you Boler is safe I always recommend using it for a while before making any major changes or modifications. Any questions please ask.

  2. Jim Patterson
    | Reply

    Hi Ian, We have a 1973 Boler – 110vac/30A electrical entry receptacle and plug

    Do you know of a replacement that fits the same cut-out and shape as the original?

    Many thanks – great site.

    BR Jim Patterson in Point-Claire Qc

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Without a picture it is hard to say, but one of my “go-to” places for items like this that are not Boler specific is Vintage Trailer Supply I have lin ked directly to the page with the electrical outlets for you. They are very good to deal with, just ask them to ship by US Postal Service to keep your shipping costs lower.

      • Jim Patterson
        | Reply

        Hi Thanks for the reference. I was curious as you have a 74 Boler. How is it fitted for a power inlet?

        Similiar to this in concept.
        http://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-301ELRV-Power-Inlet-Stainless/dp/B000E3V9R6/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_y#Ask

        However, our 73 Boler has a round black Bakelite constructed original Bargman receptacle and the prongs are not shaped the same as the modern ones. The cable set has a Bakelite plug that mates. Very robust. However, the cable set is old and is loose where it joins with the plug. Looking for a solution that is ound with the same cutout as the original and wondered if you had come across it.

        Thanks

        Jim

        • Ian
          | Reply

          The challenging thing about Boler’s is that due to the production licensing agreements they were made in a number of different locations and many of the items are unique or inconsistent. My 1974 has an attached power 15 amp power cord. The actual terminal configuration you have is still available, I help another owner source one for his cord end but I am not finding the outlet …. yet, I will continue searching and post if I find something.

          • Ian
            |

            Your power outlet is actually a 35A, I found this information on an Airstream forum which used the same outlet on early models
            “They’re nearly impossible to find. Most people replace the trailer connector with a Marinco 30A shore power inlet, which are available at Vintage Trailer Supply, among other places. Marinco 30a cords are readily available.”

  3. Jim Patterson
    | Reply

    My 73 1300 was made at Earlton. Thanks for the research. I read more in depth on Vintage site and the 30A seems to be the solution.

    Thanks. Jim

  4. Lisa Adams
    | Reply

    Hello, I’m having trouble with my lighting. I have a 4 prong adapter to my car and boler. All the running lights work when it is plugged into my car. The light over the sink works with the 120 volt plugged in. The 2 lights on the side of the cabinets, the porch light and the license plate light won’t work. Do I need a battery? Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Lisa

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hi Lisa
      If the wiring is still original then the lights on the sides of the cabinet only work when the trailer plug is attached to the car (tow vehicle) and the car’s lights are turned on. Sound funny and really it is but that is the way it was originally. To have the lights work independent of the tow vehicle you will either have to install and wire in a batter or an easier solution is to buy stick-on LED lights that run off their own battery.

  5. David
    | Reply

    Hi Ian

    Which deep cycle battery do you recommend for the boler. I am running new wire and plan to operate a small 5 amp water pump, a fantastic vent, and two interior lights? When I bought the boler It had a Costco car battery in it…but I don’t think its a deep cycle and it does seem to be under powered for the job?

    • Ian
      | Reply

      I wouldn’t replace that battery until it fails. A deep cycle can discharge more before recharging without damaging the battery, but as long as you keep the car battery above 60% charge it will be fine.

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