Many of the parts for your Boler are readily available from your local RV parts counter, but if you go in and ask for a Boler part the usual response is “we don’t have anything that will work”  Over the build of my Boler I have searched and sourced many parts, some original, some replacement, some upgrade and some just work.

  • Click below the picture for a larger image
  • Click on the picture or supplier logo for a direct link to the product

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The Best 316 Stainless Steel Hinge Repair Kit

The two most common problems with poor door fit on a Boler are hinges out of alignment and worn pivot ball and bolt.  Your hinges need to be working correctly and in good shape before adjusting the door.

Don’t rebuild your hinges with parts that are available at the corner hardware store that will rust and corrode in the first year.

STAINLESS STEEL KIT NOW AVAILABLE – I offer the best quality hinge repair kits available.  These kits include; the main bolt, lock nut and spring all made from marine grade 316 stainless steel, a solid brass ball, nylon isolation washers, special synthetic silicon lubricant and full illustrated instructions everything you need to make your hinges better than new. $20.00 (plus shipping &  handling in Canada & USA)

Available at: (click link for item page)

 

Tail / Signal / Brake Lights

Reflect0lite-

These taillight lenses were made by Reflect-O-Lite, Chicago, ILL.  They are marked 110 150 on the lens.  Although these are no longer made you may be able to find some NOS (new old stock) on Ebay or used.  By using the 4″ LED lights listed below, which is what i did, these can be converted to very nice “original looking” tail lights.

Discontinued and no longer available

Bargman No.99.  The lens is approximately 6.5″ in diameter and has a “tiered wedding cake” profile. It is surface mounted and held to the base by three machine screws.  These are similar to the original Boler lenses but nor exact.  These also use standard incandescent bulbs, LED bulbs can be substituted if you want to convert

 

7 LED

7 in. LED Stop/Turn/Tail Transit Light.  These are probably the most common LED light used as a replacement for your Boler. They fit almost perfectly, are easy to wire in and look good.  Watch for them to go on sale.

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Princess Auto (Canada)

princess-auto 150

4 LED

4 in. LED Stop/Turn/Tail Light.  These LED lights are extremely bright and fit perfectly inside the original Boler Reflect-O-Lite lens.  These are what I use in my tail lights.

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Princess Auto (Canada)

princess-auto 150

Marker Lights

CT Marker 1

There are a lot of options when it comes to side marker or clearance lights.  I would recommend that you use LED, they are easy to wire and far more reliable

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Canadian Tire

CT

marker

4 x 2 in. LED Clearance/Marker Light

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Princess Auto (Canada)

princess-auto 150

clear marker 150

2-7/8 in. LED Mini Clearance/Marker Light  (these are the marker lights I used)

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Princess Auto (Canada)

princess-auto 150

 

Hinge & Hinge Repair

P1070475_1024

The two most common problems with poor door fit on a Boler are hinges out of alignment and worn pivot ball and bolt.  Your hinges need to be working correctly and in good shape before adjusting the door.

Don’t rebuild your hinges with parts that are available at the corner hardware store that will rust and corrode in the first year.

NOW AVAILABLE – I offer the best quality hinge repair kits available.  These kits include; the main bolt, lock nut and spring all made from marine grade 316 stainless steel, a solid brass ball, nylon isolation washers, special synthetic silicon lubricant and full illustrated instructions everything you need to make your hinges better than new. $20.00 (plus shipping & handling in Canada & USA)

Available at: (click link for item page)

Scamp hinge

Original Boler hinges are no longer available, you can usually repair the original hinges with the kit available above.  If you need to replace your hinges these are the only option.  When installing these hinges you will have to drill new homes as they DO NOT line with the original holes.  These Scamp door hinges are NOT a direct replacement for Boler door hinges.

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Scamp Trailer

scamp_logo_150

Window & Door Seals

Header seal

This gray vinyl seal is used on the header (Top) of Boler side jalousie windows. It is 7/8″ tall. The T at the top is approximately 1/8″ wide.

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Vintage Trailer Supply

Vintage_Trailer_Supply_150x

J seal

The silicone rubber seal is J-shape and slides in an 1/8″ channel on the bottom edge of each sash.

NOTE: This seal is an excellent fit, but it is very soft rubber. To help slide it in the channel, some customers have immersed the seal in soapy water. Other customers report that powdering it first helps reduce friction and lets it slide better.

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Vintage Trailer Supply

Vintage_Trailer_Supply_150x

Bottom seal

The bottom pane of glass closes against this seal.

The seal fits in a channel and is held in place without adhesives.

The dart on this gasket (part that slides in the aluminum channel) is 1/8″ wide. Made of gray silicone and sold by the foot in continuous lengths.

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Vintage Trailer Supply

Vintage_Trailer_Supply_150x

VTS-136-2

This is very similar to the original clip on door seal, rivets are used through the web to hold it on securely

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Vintage Trailer Supply

Vintage_Trailer_Supply_150x-150x78

VTS-229-2

This is the best door seal I have found and use it on my Boler.  Once installed close the door and leave it closed for a day or two to compress the seal

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Vintage Trailer Supply

Vintage_Trailer_Supply_150x-150x78

Vents

vent14x14

14″ x 14″ Metal-top/Metal-base Crank-up Roof Vent … basic, reliable, will NEVER deteriorate and crack and leak.

You will need to scroll down the page about ¾ of the way

Axles

dexter_axle_logo 150

The Dexter #9 axle is the original replacement axle for your Boler, get brakes on any replacement axle, they are well worth the extra cost.

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Standens Springs

Steel-plate-logo 150

universalgrouplogoFlexiride®

Flexiride adjustable rubber torsion axle

Home website:   http://www.ucfamerica.com/flexiride.html

Technical data & specifications:  http://www.ucfamerica.com/tech.html

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Standens Springs

Steel-plate-logo 150

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Awnings

batwing

At only 50 inches long the attractive anodized aluminum case houses the fabric and all its accessories with a total weight of less than 15 pounds. There are no moving parts to wear out. Solid fiberglass rods are inserted at each side and extend beyond the awning case to hold up the fabric under tension. Supplied string tie-downs are attached to the supporting rods to stabilize the fabric. For use during moderate windy conditions we have optional downdraft poles available.  The special water repellent fabric is made of high tenacity nylon and is available in assorted colors. Setup time is quick and easy and takes only one person to do.

Available at: (click link for item page)

LogoNeu3 (150x26)

s-sew-s

S-Sew-S sewing Services, a Canadian company

Available at: (click link for item page)

s-sew-s logo

vintage trailer awning

Vintage Trailer Supply rope & pole vintage awnings

Available at: (click link for item page)

  • Vintage Trailer Supply

Vintage_Trailer_Supply_150x-150x78

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Everything Else …

GearWeAre.com was launched at the beginning of September 2010 with just one aim: to tell people what’s good – and what’s rubbish – in the world of the outdoors.

Our reviewers are not paid a penny, so you can be sure that we will tell it like it is. We always try to match the reviewer to the product to give a ‘real-world’ review and explain how a product made our lives better.

Neumeister 150

Paul Neumeister Ontario

Available at: (click link for item page)

Neumeister 150

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61 Responses

  1. bob dupee
    | Reply

    found a nice awning online at JC Whitneys in Chicago… $250 US, free shipping and it has easy to use telescoping arms and legs, very lightweight. The original Carefree awning I ordered from Joe Thoen (Outback/trillium in Calgary) never arrived, and I’m still waiting for him to refund my $$$.. very disappointing.

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hello Bob
      Thank you for the tip, I will look into those awnings. I actually just ordered a new awning for my Boler today. Made by ShadyBoy they look like the perfect awning for a Boler or other small fiberglass trailer. I will be adding them to my parts list above. Pricing for the awning is about $325 CAD, with extra poles, brackets, shipping and GST the total is about $450 ShadyBoy Awning.

      • Ryan
        | Reply

        Hey Ian. Received the repair kit for the hinges. Can’t wait to try them out. Also, we purchased the shady boy awning direct from shady boy over in Vancouver when we were there last. Install was a breeze and we are happy with the results. Though it comes with poles we found a tip online (from a blog somewhere) about using bags of rocks tied to a string/light rope in place of the support poles. We found when it gets windy the poles lift off the ground and come apart…not the best system. But, the bag of rocks (or other weight) lifts gently with the wind and doesn’t require us to get up every five minutes to put the poles back together.

        • Ian
          | Reply

          Thanks for the comments Ryan, I am sure you will be very happy with the hinge repair kit.
          I really appreciate the tip with the awning, I didn’t have troubles with the poles coming apart but I can see where the weights would work very well, I am going to give them a try.

  2. Mathew
    | Reply

    please give me a shout when you do the hinge repair kits. I find that the $25 dollar shipping plus duty for $12 of hinge repair from scamp is steep.

    • Ian
      | Reply

      I will Mathew
      And the quality of every part in my kits will be the very best.
      I hope to have the kits available by mid July, just waiting for the custom made stainless steel springs.

  3. Borden Bleich
    | Reply

    We have a 1978 17′ boler (17′ 4 1/2″) made in Ontario; they came from factory with a toilet/shower option, electric brakes, electric water pump, 3 way fridge and a furnace. Furnace has a 12v fan (do not know what type of battery they had but it did have one). Says in manual tire size and that they were b rated. This does not mean they had modern ST tires though just different rating system we have switched to ST radial tires as they are made for the job and just safer.
    Point is you have in this document that they did not have a battery but ours always has had one.

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hello Borden
      Thank you for your comment

      Yes I do recommend using ST trailer tires and it is best to use the highest load rating available in that size of tire. The manual will state the “minimum” load rating.

      This website, Boler-Camping.com, is specifically about the 13′ Boler, although most of the information is similar to the 15′ or 17′ Boler’s there are differences, some minor and some significant. I have rebuilt and reverse engineered the 13′ Boler and can confidently comment on this specific model, the larger units I do not know as intimately. I do know that all the larger Boler’s came equipped with 12V systems like you have mentioned, they use a deep cycle marine/RV battery to power the fridge and lights, but the original 13′ did not have a factory installed battery, the interior lights were powered by the car battery through the trailer plug when the vehicle’s park lights were on.

  4. Latrace
    | Reply

    please let me know/reserve hinge repair kit. will order for sure. thanks

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Great to hear you are interested in my hinge repair kits.
      I am hoping the custom wound stainless steel springs will arrive soon and the kits will be available before the end of July.

  5. Donna Robb
    | Reply

    Hi Ian…not sure if this is the correct site to go to for this type of info but have looked at your responses and they always seem spot on. We have purchased a 1986 boler in need of repairs but are unsure as where to begin..the 1st problem is leakage around the windows, the second issue it seems to be leaking from the top of the boler…which then flows down around the top of the window at the front of the trailer. We want to replace all the material (Hull lining) on the inside, we will need to replace the rear window….so where to begin???Everything else is just cosmetic which we can handle…any help suggestions would be really appreciated..

    • Ian
      | Reply

      I can understand that you feel a bit overwhelmed and leaks in particular are frustrating and worrisome … but don’t worry.
      Considering your Boler is now 30 years old some leaks can be expected and really they are not that difficult to repair, the hardest part is locating the source. Lets start with the front and rear windows, look at the plexiglas itself, are there any cracks in them? These cracks will leak but if no cracks then look at the seal, is the joint tight or is it seperating, is the joint at the top or bottom of the window? If there is some separation, the seal (and window) will need replacing but as a temporary fix you can firmly press butyl tape (the same tape used to seal around the side windows and vent) into the gap. I don’t recommend using a caulking as it will be a real pain to clean up when you do replace the window but the butyl tape will seal even if the area is damp and is easily removable.

      The upper roof leaks could be the vent but if it is coming down the front area I would suspect one of the rivets either the ones securing the drape rods, the upper kitchen cabinet, or the awning rail, see if any of these rivets are loose or missing, replace any questionable rivets either with rivets or #8 machine screws and nuts, use a bit of butyl tape around each hole to help seal.

      Finally check the roof vent and side windows, if the butyl rubber seal has failed these will have to be removed, cleaned up and re-sealed, but again you can use a garden hose to test each one to see if that is the leak, but if one window is leaking the other will soon follow. Again don’t stress, it is important to use your Boler during the summer while you can, you can use butyl tale as temporary, albeit ugly, patches around windows and vents to keep the water out and still be able to use it, then in the fall it is easy to remove the tape and take on the project of repairing the leaks.

      Finally I would do everything possible to save the liner, try cleaning, is it a fabric hull liner or the vinyl coated ensolite? vinyl cleans well with scrubbing bubbles and ammonia, check out marine and boating forums on their recommendations for cleaning fabric. It is worth a try vs the work involved in replacing.

    • Mark
      | Reply

      I just replaced both rear and front windows after ruining them with paint remover. It was a daunting job and required as much patience as I could muster. If you decide to do that I can let you know what I learned from the process.

      • Ian
        | Reply

        I Agree Mark, not a fun job.
        I hope you followed some of my pointers on replacing the Front & Rear Windows on my maintenance page.

    • Fred Plews
      | Reply

      Sorry to bother you, but I have a 13ft boiler and mead to replace the front and rear Windows ,I am having a check of a job finding out were I can purchase the Windows ,seals and the tool headed,if you can enlighten me, I would be very much obliged,the Windows date 19 in x 43 and a half inches 3/16 inches, well that is the thickens I have been tolled I need,holding to hear from you, I live in mexico! But will be in Canada for a few weeks

  6. Donna Robb
    | Reply

    Ian, Thank you so very much for your detailed response, I reviewed the info with my husband and we are excited to begin the renovations. The lining inside is in fact Hull lining and we think we will have no choice except to replace it since the roof leaks have probably been there all along and we are worried that mould may be present behind the lining.The lining has seams which are covered by white plastic strips which are pulling away from the material, we thought we just need to replace the whole thing.
    It was one of these deals where we purchased the trailer on a sunny day and drove it home in a heavy rain storm and discovered all the leaks once we got home. Also I failed to mention we have a problem with odours inside, apparently it was stored on a horse farm for a few years… I have stripped away all the cushions etc and scrubbed hard surfaces with bleach solution but it still smells..any idea how to get rid of these “unpleasant” odours…
    We appreciate all your advice Ian and hope we can get going on the restoration and have it somewhat completed before summer is over. Best, Donna

  7. Drew
    | Reply

    Looking forward to when you have your hinge rebuild kits available…put me down for a set!
    Drew

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hi Drew, I am just waiting for the stainless steel springs to arrive which should be any day now. Keep an eye on the site as I will update as soon as they are available.

  8. Steven
    | Reply

    How/where would I buy a new axle? I see the link to dexter, but I can’t find the #9 axle. I have a 13′ 79 Scamp trailer and live in Oklahoma. THANKS!

    • Ian
      | Reply

      There are a number of places to check for an axle for your Scamp. First place I would call would be Scamp themselves (I inserted the link in their name).

      Dexter lists a number of distributors in Oklahoma (link in text)

      I would recommend you get a 2200 lb axle with brakes. Please check these measurements but the axle you need probably is:

        Bolt circle 5×4.5″
        Start angle 10 deg up
        Bracket spacing (outside to outside frame) 48″
        Hub face to Hub Face 63″

      Hope this helps

  9. Donnie
    | Reply

    Hi Ian,
    Likewise, we are looking forward to your hinge repair kit. We’ve just confirmed that our hinges are missing springs. Please put us down for a set as well. Thanks for this great resource you are sharing with all of us!

  10. Jeff
    | Reply

    Hey Ian,

    Wondering if your hinge rebuild kit is available yet?

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Yes Jeff, the final parts just arrived and the kits will be available this week, I just have a couple logistical items to look after and I can start taking orders.

      • Jeff
        | Reply

        Sounds awesome! Just got our first Boler and is in need of these parts. Put me down for 1 set soon as there available 🙂

      • Jeff
        | Reply

        The parts came a few days ago. Looking forward to getting some time to try and fix our door. Thanks 🙂

  11. Drew
    | Reply

    Just let us all know when, and where and how to send payment…I’m sure you will be overwhelmed Ian.

  12. Barrie
    | Reply

    Need to order all window rubbers for two jalousie windows and the best door seal that I presume is a glued back stick on plus hinge repair kits for two hinges. Please provide details on how to order costs including shipping to Canada and details on payment options. Thanks. Barrie B.

  13. Barrie
    | Reply

    Sorry i just figured your page out. I misunderstood thought you were a supplier. I will order from suppliers on side panels next to parts details. Thanks. Bb

    • Ian
      | Reply

      No problem Barrie
      I am starting to offer the odd part, currently I am selling the hinge repair kit and I am investigating other items. If an item is a standard piece that is just being resold I will try to identify a source for Boler owners to buy it from, like I have done with the window seals. When I decide to sell something, I have identified that either the part is not available or the parts currently available are not to a quality that I would put on my trailer, in those cases I often get components custom made to my exacting specifications. This is the case with the Hinge Repair Kits that use marine grade 316 stainless steel and solid brass ball which will not corrode.

  14. joe
    | Reply

    LOOKING FOR HINGES FOR A BOLER , PRICE AND SHIPPING AND HOW DO I PAY , THANKS jOE

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hello Joe
      The hinges on your Boler are repairable. The only part that wears out is the pivot ball (brass) and the associated bolt and spring. I offer these parts in the highest quality available, 316 stainless steel. My price for the parts and shipping is also very reasonable. Due to their popularity I am very temporarily out of stock but will have new inventory within a couple of days. I will send you an email as soon as I have the hinge repair kits back in stock. Boler-Camping Shop

  15. Steve O
    | Reply

    Hi Ian; Thanks for the Boler door hinges, I’m looking forward to getting them on in the next couple of weeks. I’m now after a bit of advice and hoping you or someone else can help out, if you don’t mind your site being used as a info seeking site. I’m doing some major renovations to the inside of our ’72 Boler; which will include changing the front sitting/sleeping area to a dinette area and hanging some cabinets over the rear bed/dinning area. I love what you did to yours Ian and hope you won’t mind me using some of your ideas. What did you do when attaching new cabinets to the outside wall or ceiling of the Boler? What type of fasteners did you use? What did you use to stop leakage when putting holes through the walls and ceilings? Any tips you or someone else can offer would be most appreciated. Cheers.

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Thank you for the comments Steve
      I encourage you to use ideas from the site, that is the main purpose I made all the information available.
      On mine all the cabinets are attached to the walls using anchors, in most cases wood blocks, fiberglassed on the inside of the shell. The only holes through the shell are for attaching the front and rear window blinds. On the blinds I used stainless steel machines screws with a rubber bonded washer, this ensures the fastener is water tight. I have summarized my Boler build on another sister website which goes into more details on the build that you may find helpful. “Buttercup” how we built our custom Boler

  16. Lisa
    | Reply

    Hi Ian,
    I have a 1979 Boler that I would like to replace the front and rear windows in. I’m just looking for some advice on where to find the plexi or other window material for this project and sizing, etc? I live near Edmonton, AB. Thanks in advance!

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hi Lisa
      I think you will find most of the information you are looking for in this article on my website http://www.boler-camping.com/boler-care-maintenance/front-rear-windows/ . Most auto glass companies can cut the 3/16″ thick acrylic to the correct shape using your original window as a template. most of these same shops can supply and install the seal & windows. Make sure that the thickness is 3/16″, most glass shops have 1/4″ and will try to use it but that is too thick and will not bend to conform to the compound curve, it will either not go in or will pop out after the install. Also a warning that there is a video on YouTube showing the seal being installed backwards DO NOT install the seal backwards, it will leak and the window can pop out while driving.

      • Lisa
        | Reply

        Thank you for the quick reply, Ian. I will definitely be looking into this very soon before the camping season is upon us!
        Lisa

  17. trevor dobson
    | Reply

    Hi Ian,
    I have read a lot of your posts and the information is awesome. I have completely rebuilt by 1973 Boler Earlton and the one thing I am having issues with is finding parts for the crank out windows. One of the window cranks appears to be stripped so when I am driving the window gradually opens on its own. do you have any ideas where to find parts for the windows? I dont want to replace the actual window as they are perfect for the trailer. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thankyou,
    Trevor

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Thank you for the comments Trevor, I appreciate them

      Most of the parts for the Jalousie windows are available, it is common for the window operators to become stripped and damaged, also the screws that fasten the operator to the window frame often become loose which can cause similar problems that you describe. In most cases the operator can be replaced without removing the window, although you may have to remove the lower louvre which is easily done by removing 2 screws on each side that connect the lower louvre to the cast aluminium side pivot arms.

      For window parts my “go to” source is Strybuc, they are a distributor but if you find the part number do a Google search, if you cannot find it there contact Strybuc and they will let you know the closest distributor. You are looking for a #1716 (C or P) operator http://www.strybuc.com/public/Catalogs/Strybuc/Strybuc-Industries-Window-and-Door-Hardware-Catalog-2015/#?page=244

  18. Mel Souter
    | Reply

    I am trying to find replacements rubber torsion blocks for my 1993 13ft Boler.. Can anyone head me in the right directions?

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hi Mel
      A couple questions, would you be referring to the axle? The rubber torsion system in the axles are not replaceable, the axle needs to be replaced.
      Also I am sure it is just a typing error but your Boler cannot me a 1993 since the last production year was 1988.
      If you let me know exactly what you are looking for I can direct you to the parts. Ian

  19. Bill Saffin
    | Reply

    I purchased the hinge repair kit from at the Vancouver Island Bolers and Friends gathering at Living Forest Campground in Nanaimo in June. I installed the kit a couple of weeks ago, and it is great. Our trailer is the 17 foot model, and the door was previously very difficult, almost impossible,. to close. Now it closes just as it should.

    Thanks for the advice and for providing this service.

  20. Sarah
    | Reply

    Hi Ian, just wondering if you have found a place for a replacement lock? On vintage trailer supply they have a bargman lock but I am not sure what would work on a Boler. It’s also pretty pricey so I am wondering if you have found some more reasonably priced options? Thanks in advance!

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Hi Sarah
      There is no replacement for the Bargman L400 lock, but I have been designing a kit to replace the original with a modern RV latch assembly. I am actually testing a prototype this weekend so I may something available soon. Stay tuned

  21. Joe
    | Reply

    Just an FYI for your Boler Parts section. Chrome Baby Moon hupcaps can be found at Vintage Trailer Supply : Great for Bolers with original rims!
    http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Vintage-Trailer-Hubcap-p/vts-595.htm#pr-header-back-to-top-link

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Thank you Joe good information

  22. Barrie Ballantyne
    | Reply

    Ian. There is a guy in Winnipeg on kigii that sells stone guards and covers for bolers. Have you ever seen these products or had dealings with him. Looks pretty well done from pictures on ad. Barrie b.

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Thanks Barrie, I have seen similar products, usually used to protect boats while being towed, these seem to be an adaptation of that design to protect Boler’s.
      It actually should protect the trailer, just need to be careful when backing up and making tight turns.

  23. Barrie Ballantyne
    | Reply

    I agree with that about the tight turns and backing up. Looks like they are in the boler rental business too. Interesting, i might give them a call. Barrie b.

  24. Alice Fontaine
    | Reply

    I made my awning 7’x9′ to attach a boler. We wanted to use tent poles to dome the awning to encourage the rain to run off. We finally found some at Home hardware in case anyone is searching for tent poles.

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Thank you for the info Alice.
      Other good sources for tent poles include: Wholesale Sports, Bass Pro Shop, Canadian Tire,

  25. Barrie Ballantyne
    | Reply

    Ian. There is a boler used parts guy in linden Alberta with an ad on kiijii for a lyster door handle complete then further down another ad calls it a bargman 400. $300. Pricey but if you need it and it fits. He does have other items too. ???? Barrie b.

    • Ian
      | Reply

      The Lyster and Bargman lock look very similar from a distance, the main difference being cutout for the Lyster is about 5″ long whereas the Bargman cutout is about 6.26″.
      I have seen a number of new parts available for Boler’s on Kijiji, these are parts brought up from Scamp and being resold. The seller does mark up the price but he also looks after all shipping, currency exchange, etc.

  26. Barrie ballantyne
    | Reply

    Thanks Ian, i appeciate your expertice on these matters. Bb

  27. Barrie Ballantyne
    | Reply

    Ian. I just successfully removed a lousy paint job from the bottom of our 75 boler and after some polishing the brown fiberglass gel coat looks great. I found somewhere on the net to use easy off oven cleaner. It took 8 cans lots of patience ( im short of that ) it was pretty dull under the paint as in believe it was sanded before painting but it polished up with light compound and buffing with polish wheel. Looks great. I thought others might like to know that the oven cleaner worked for me, use at own risk and be carefull, esp around aluminum trim. Barrie b.

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Great tip Barrie, Thank you

  28. Stephen Lowther
    | Reply

    Hi Ian,
    My wife and I bought a 1700 last spring. Among other things, a previous Owner removed the insulation, Ensolite I believe it is called. We would like to re-insulate it, is the original insulation still available? I was thinking of using spray applied polyurethane insulation. Any thoughts? Also, how can I protect the underside of the exposed plywood floor, would an undercoat meant for vehicles work?

    • Ian
      | Reply

      Thank you for you comments Stephan
      To my knowledge the 17′ Boler used a 3/4″ thick open cell, vinyl covered foam rather than ensolite. The open cell is not the best choice because it can absorb and hold water.
      The coated ensolite used in the 13′ Boler is no longer available but here are several choices for replacing your insulation.

      1) most home improvement store sell a silver bubble insulation called Reflectix, this is an inexpensive option that adds moderate insulation. You adhere this to the fibreglass with a high quality contact cement, then the entire interior is covered with marine hull liner for a finished look.

      2) as better insulation would be ALUTHERMO QUATTRO, this would give higher insulation at a higher price. The same application and marine hull liner cover would be needed. http://www.aluthermo.com/en/aluthermo-products/quattro

      3) A new product on the market is a spray on cork insulation, this looks like a very good solution with good insulation values and just sprayed on the interior, no additional covering needed. The interior would have to be masked and/or items removed before application. Cost is a question mark but I know of at least one Boler owner who is getting it done to his 1968 “flat top” http://www.vipeqindustries.com/

      Hope this provides someideas

  29. Barrie Ballantyne
    | Reply

    Ian. Found side window operators at Arrkann Rv calgary and edmonton have a parts page showing many operators. Just ordered some for my 1974 Honey Boler which were a bit different than 1718. Check em out Barrie B.

  30. Christina
    | Reply

    Hi Ian,

    We just bought a 1979 Boler 1700 in excellent, nearly all original shape. Ours didn’t come with a shower, but I see that some models did. Do you know of a company that sells the shower liners, or if not, how we might go about installing a shower liner and spray? Thank you!

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